A Close Look At the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

 Classically elegant and exceptionally technical, the complex watches from Vacheron Constantin are often coveted masterpieces made in very limited numbers. The newest Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph – unveiled on the Watchesandwonders.com digital platform (which was launched when the Watches & Wonders Geneva show would have taken place)— is no exception.

“The watch combines a monopusher chronograph (already a difficult and complicated feat) with a tourbillon mechanism that features a new carriage configuration. For the first time, the two complications come together in a new look. The tourbillon escapement (which compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity on the watch when the wrist is in certain positions) is now located at 12:00 on the dial. Also, thanks to a new mechanical layout, that required a total new layout of the pinions and wheel of the tourbillon, the aperture is larger – offering a spectacular view of the tourbillon escapement.”

“The chronograph counter at 3:00 offers short-term measurement of intervals of time (such as race laps) up to 45 minutes. The monopusher chronograph features  an all-or-nothing system that stops the chronograph from engaging accidentally. The subsidiary dial at 6:00 is a power reserve indication, denoting how much power is left in the watch before needing to be wound.  There is even a railway style minute track on the outer edge of the dial, and a tachymeter scale.

“There are a host of important details on this watch, as well, including a fluted case back and a fluted crown with the Vacheron Constantin Matlese cross on the tip of the crown. The silvered opaline dial is exquisitely finished with applied 18-karat pink gold markers. As with most of the brand’s Traditionnelle watches, the hands are dauphine style. ”

“Crafted in 5-N 18-karat rose gold, the 42.5mm watch is powered by the brand’s in-house made  manual-winding Caliber 3200 movement that was first unveiled at the brand’s 260^thanniversary five years ago. It consists of 292 hand-finished and hand-assembled parts. The watch carries the Hallmark of Geneva certification attesting to its meticulous hand finishing and craftsmanship. The movement is visible via a transparent sapphire caseback. The complicated tourbillon chronograph is water resistant to 30 meters. It retails for $197,000 and will be available beginning in August of this year. ”

(This article by Roberta Naas first appeared on her Perfect Timing column on Forbes.com.)