It was almost 30 years ago in 1992 that Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled its Master Control watches and they were an immediate hit. I remember because I was covering this industry (as the first female watch journalist in America) at the time. The line was marked by its aura of technical mastery and sophisticated style. Now, via the Watchesandwonders.com digital platform that takes the place of the exhibition (which was canceled due to COVID-19) Jaeger-LeCoultre relaunches the series with three new Master Control watches, including a date version and two calendar watches that have a real master watchmaking appeal about them.

Before launching into the specifics of the watches, let me give you my impression — albeit I have not yet gotten to go hands-on with the watches. I love the new series. Remember, I was around when the originals launched and the collection received an almost cult-like following. Many collectors will be clamoring for the new line simply because it was such a hit in the past. However, the new details offer a deft blend of vintage and modern, and the reworked movements underscore Jaeger-LeCoultre’s dedication to precision and its willingness to always strive to do more.

Inspiration for the Master Control Date and Calendar

The design inspiration for the new 40mm round case comes from the 1950’s —  from its iconic watches like the Memovox, PowerMatic and Futurematic. However, it is modernized to offer sleek, stealth appeal. The Master Control Date Automatic brings together the time and date functions, while the calendar watch offers a triple display with a moon phase indication at 6:00. In addition to the two stainless steel watches that have a great price/value positioning, the Master Control Calendar watch is also being offered in a new pink gold alloy that the brand is calling Le Grand Rose(R) gold.  The Le Grand Rose(R) gold offers a richer sheen than ordinary gold and won’t fade over time, most likely due to the added palladium in the secret formula.  While the steel versions are available immediately, the Le Grand Rose Master Control Calendar won’t be out until June.

In addition to new cases and a new gold alloy, the watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre have also tinkered with its movements, so that the calibers equipping the Master Control watches offer increased power reserve (70 hours) and enhanced reliability. Every Master Control watch undergoes the brand’s “1,000 Hours Control” certification. In fact, the name of the line was inspired by that pioneering certification that Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled in 1992- and the first Master Control watches were the first collection to go through the certification. To this day, Jaeger-LeCoultre implements the certification, testing the entire cased watch for 1,000 hours in extreme circumstances. The new Master Control watches endure the rigors of this certification and carry an incredible 8-year warranty.

Contemporary Classicism

The new  Master Control watches boast a host of features that showcase their contemporary style, including a sloped bezel and curved lugs, as  well as satin-brushed finishes on the case sides that juxtapose to the polished bezel, crown and lugs. The dials feature applied indexes with an elongated triangular shape and offer brushed sunday patterns on a silvery background. A blue central seconds hand graces the Date version, while the Calendar watch boasts a small blued seconds hand on the subsidiary moonphase dial.

The watches are finished with a new calfskin leather strap called Novonappa(R) — a soft matte-finished leather that offers a casual yet chic look. Created a tannery in France, the straps are vegetable tanned and the process allows for natural variations of the hides to emerge.  The straps feature a Presto Spring lug attachment for easy changing with a classic alligator strap without the need for a tool.

Re-engineered Calibers For the Master Control Watches

As mentioned, for this re-introduction of the Master Control series, Jaeger-LeCoutlre’s watchmakers have revised the Caliber 899 and 866, adding elements that enhance performance.

For the Master Control Date watch — that measures just  8.78mm thick — the Caliber 899 new generation movement provides the power. Its central  seconds wheel has been redesigned so that it eliminates any shaking. A  silicon escapement has been added to minimize friction. It also boasts a redesigned barrel  that accommodates a stronger, longer mainspring without increasing the height of the movement, and other energy-saving enhancements.  Additionally, the oscillating wheel’s fixing screws are made of highly corrosion resistant  and light-weight titanium instead of steel. New oils are also employed that have been specifically formulated for the new materials. It retails for $6,750.

For the Master Control Calendar watch — which recalls the brand’s beloved triple calendar moonphase movements from the 1940’s and ’50’s — Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers reworked the Caliber 866, as well, in order to up the power reserve to 70 hours, and intensify performance and reliability of the automatic mechanical movement. The watch offers hours and minutes, naturally, as well as small seconds indication, month, moon phase indication and jumping date (with a red-tipped pointer hand date indicating the date on an outer track on the dial). Interestingly enough, in order to not interfere aesthetically with the moonphase (and small seconds) subsidiary dial at 6:00, the watchmakers have positioned the date on the outer track to run 1 through 15 on the right side of the dial — stopping at the moonphase subdial. The date then starts again with 16 on the other side of the moonphase indication and continues to 31on the left side. With this configuration, every month, the date hands makes a 90-degree leap from the 15th to the 16th — adding a hint of drama. The 40mm case measures 10.95mm in thickness. This watch, as mentioned, will be available in stainless steel ($10,700) or in the new Le Grand Rose gold(R) for $22,400.

Technical Specification of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date And Calendar Watches

Master Control Date

Dimensions: 40mm x 8.78mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899 (new generation)

Functions: hours/minutes/seconds, date

Power reserve: 70 hours

Case: stainless steel, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case-back

Water-resistance: 5 bar

Dial: silver sunray finish, applied indexes

Strap: Novonappa® calf

Reference: Q4018420

Retail price: $6750.

 

Master Control Calendar

Dimensions: 40mm x 10.95mm

Calibre: automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 866 (new generation)

Functions: hours/minutes, small seconds, day, jumping date, month, moon phases

Power reserve: 70 hours

Case: stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold®, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case-back

Water-resistance: 5 bar

Dial: silver sunray finish, applied indexes

Strap: Novonappa® calf or alligator

Reference: Q4148420 (stainless steel), Q4142520 (Le Grand Rose gold®)

Retail price: steel – $10,700; Le Grand Rose gold(R) — $22,400.