By Nancy Olson
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda ladies timepieces combine serious watchmaking with the lavish delicacies of the jeweler’s art—two things that grab my attention when considering a watch I’d want to wear on my wrist. Available in myriad variations, one more beautiful than the next, it’s not so easy for me to choose a favorite among them, and the newest introduction, the diamond-studded Tonda Automatic Diamonds, in rose or white gold (CHF 59,000), makes the decision that much more difficult. This new diamond-paved timepiece is rivaled, to date, only by last year’s rose gold Tonda Reine de Mai when it comes to diamond embellishments.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Automatic Diamonds
More than a thousand brilliant-cut diamonds were used on the dial and case of the 36mm watch. Specifically, there are 979 diamonds on the dial, while 70 diamonds decorate the case. All are F-G color and VVS, if those types of distinctions float your boat. For me, suffice it to say the stones are great quality, and the exceptional setting nudges them into the extraordinary.
Fans of the Tonda PF models are familiar with Parmigiani’s signature grain d’orge—or barleycorn—motif on its dials. Here, the pattern in recreated using seven different sizes of diamonds to produce undulating waves of sparkle. The company likens the setting to pointillism, a painting technique wherein small dots of color are used to form an image. The overall dial effect on the Tonda Automatic Diamonds is one of a shimmering blanket of snow.
The white gold model has blued stainless steel skeletonized hour and minute hands, and an 18-karat gold PVD (blue) logo is at 12 o’clock. The rose gold model has rose-gold plated skeletonized hour and minute hands and an 18-karat rose gold logo at 12 o’clock. This subtle suggestion of color on both models is a well-placed design element that enhances the white flare of the dial, interrupting it just enough to make the adjacent stones that much more dazzling.
The bezel and signature lugs are set with diamonds (1.69 carats), while the crown is set with a blue sapphire cabochon on the white gold model and a white opal on the rose gold model.
Moving inside, the PF 310 manufacture movement, also used in the ladies Tonda Metropolitaine models, offers 50 hours of power reserve, thanks to two series-coupled barrels. The beautifully decorated movement—visible through the sapphire crystal caseback—comprises 180 components and 28 jewels, and it beats at 28,800 vph. The 22-karat oscillating weight features guilloche, also in in the grain d’orge style, which is a thoughtful reference to the dial. The caseback is engraved with the watch’s serial number, as well as “Parmigiani Fleurier” and “Swiss Made.”
Most of the ladies Tonda models are fitted on leather straps, which is a smart choice (read: “in keeping with my taste”). A leather strap grounds a jewelry watch, in my opinion, and adds some welcome gravity—like wearing jeans with a blazer. Here, each model is on an Hermès alligator leather strap: the white gold model is on blue with a white gold pin buckle, while the rose gold model is on gray with a rose gold pin buckle.